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Peptide (cosmetic ingredient)Limited humanNot a drug

Matrixyl

Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4

Last reviewed October 27, 2026 · 16 sources · Written for general readers · Compare with another compound →

The bottom line

Matrixyl is a lab made peptide based on a small piece of the starting form of collagen, joined to a fatty acid that helps it enter skin.[1][2][3] A 12 week trial in 93 women found modest wrinkle improvement compared with plain moisturizer, and a few smaller studies agree.[4][2][5] Most studies are small, and some results were never published in scientific journals.[2]

Where the evidence stands

What it is

Matrixyl is a trade name for palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, also written pal-KTTKS. It is a chain of five amino acids (lysine, threonine, threonine, lysine, serine) joined to palmitic acid, a common fatty acid.[1]

The KTTKS piece comes from procollagen type I, the starting form of the main collagen in skin. A 1993 lab study first reported that this piece can boost production of the support material around cells.[6][2]

A 2026 computer based safety screen by industry scientists found that its sequence resembles stretches of the body's own collagen, elastin and fibronectin, the support proteins of skin.[7]

It is used in creams and serums sold to reduce wrinkles. Cosmetics do not need FDA approval before sale.[8]

Name
Matrixyl (Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4)
Other names
palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, pal-KTTKS
Type
Peptide (cosmetic ingredient)
Sequence
Palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser
CAS number
214047-00-4
Formula
C39H75N7O10
Molecular weight
About 802 g/mol

What it does in the body

Matrixyl is not made by the body, but its KTTKS core matches a short piece of procollagen, the raw form of skin's main collagen. The idea is that when collagen breaks down, small pieces like this act as a signal telling skin cells called fibroblasts to make more support proteins.[6][2]

This is the biology, area by area. A change measured in the body, like a higher blood level, does not always mean a person feels a benefit. The claims check below covers that.

Skin support proteins

Lab finding

In skin cells grown in the lab, the peptide was reported to raise production of collagen types I, III and IV, elastin, fibronectin and glycosaminoglycans, the materials that give skin firmness and bounce, mainly by making more rather than breaking down less.[2] Packing it in tiny fat bubbles called liposomes boosted collagen production by mouse fibroblasts more than the free peptide.[9] No study has measured collagen in the skin of people using the cream.

Getting through the skin

Lab finding

The fatty acid tail matters. On mouse skin in a lab diffusion test, plain KTTKS was not found in any skin layer, while pal-KTTKS reached the outer dead layer, the living outer layer and, in about 14 times smaller amounts, the deeper dermis where fibroblasts live.[3]

Skin surface and wrinkles

Measured in people

In 93 women using it on one side of the face for 12 weeks, the peptide side had fewer wrinkles and fine lines by image analysis and expert grading than the plain moisturizer side.[4] In an 8 week trial of 21 women, a Matrixyl cream appeared to beat both an argireline cream and placebo for crow's feet.[5]

Wound and scar cells

Lab finding

In human skin cells grown in lab collagen gels, a low strength of the peptide roughly halved the share of cells turning into myofibroblasts, the cells that pull wounds closed and form scars, while a higher strength had no clear effect.[10]

Development before birth

Seen in animals

In a 2026 study, Matrixyl placed directly on developing chick embryos caused no obvious defects, unlike argireline at higher strengths in the same study.[11] The abstract gave no sample sizes.

How it works

The idea is that small collagen pieces act as a signal that tells skin cells to make more support proteins.[2]

  • In lab studies it was reported to raise production of collagen types I, III and IV, elastin, fibronectin and glycosaminoglycans.[2]
  • The effect seemed to come mainly from cells making more of these proteins, not from slowing their breakdown.[2]
  • The palmitic acid tail helps it get into skin. Without the tail, the same peptide did not enter mouse skin at all in a lab test.[3]
  • In human skin cells grown in the lab, it reduced the change of ordinary cells into scar forming cells called myofibroblasts.[10]

The lab signal is plausible, but it is not proven that this is why creams show results in people.

What the research shows

We keep animal and human evidence apart. A result in animals is a reason to study something in people, not proof that it works in people.

Animal and lab studies

Mostly lab cell studies

  • A 1993 study found that the KTTKS piece of procollagen promoted production of the material that surrounds and supports cells.[6]
  • Most later supporting work comes from skin cells grown in the lab, where the peptide raised collagen and other support proteins.[2] In a 2024 study, liposome packaged pal-KTTKS stimulated collagen in mouse fibroblasts more than the free peptide.[9]
  • On hairless mouse skin in a lab diffusion test, pal-KTTKS was more stable than plain KTTKS and reached all skin layers, while plain KTTKS reached none.[3]
  • In human skin cells grown in lab collagen gels, a low strength of the peptide roughly halved the share of cells becoming myofibroblasts. A higher strength did not have a clear effect.[10]
  • In developing chick embryos exposed directly to Matrixyl, researchers saw no obvious defects, unlike argireline at higher strengths in the same study.[11]

Limit: Cell results do not show whether a cream changes wrinkles you can see, and we found no animal studies of the cream on living skin.

Human studies

A few small, placebo controlled studies show modest improvement

  • In a 12 week study, 93 women aged 35 to 55 used moisturizer with the peptide on one side of the face and plain moisturizer on the other. The peptide side had fewer wrinkles and fine lines by image analysis and expert grading, the women themselves rated it better, and the peptide was well tolerated.[4]
  • In a 2023 double blind trial, 21 Indonesian women aged 26 to 55 were randomly assigned to a Matrixyl cream, an argireline cream or placebo around the eyes for 8 weeks. Skin moisture, water loss, elasticity, photos and a crow's feet scale were measured. Matrixyl appeared to beat both, but the abstract gave no numbers or side effect data.[5]
  • A placebo controlled study around the eyes over 28 days reported shallower and thinner skin folds.[2]
  • Two double blind split face studies in 42 and 35 women aged 30 to 70 tested lotions and creams containing pal-KTTKS along with niacinamide, another peptide and carnosine for 4 weeks. Crow's feet got smoother than on the untreated side, but the abstract gave no numbers and did not say which product held the peptide.[13]
  • A four month study of 49 women reported less roughness and shallower wrinkles than the base cream, but it appeared in a trade magazine, not a peer reviewed journal.[2]
  • A 2024 review of anti aging skin ingredients rated peptides as among the better supported types, mostly on the basis of small randomized studies.[14]
  • We found no human studies of injected Matrixyl and no studies lasting longer than a few months.

Limit: Studies are small and short, often test mixed formulas, and the benefit is modest.[2]

Claims check

The most common claims about this compound, and what studies actually found. Verdicts rate the evidence, not whether you should use it.

Reduces wrinkles and fine lines

Mixed results

In a 12 week split face study, 93 women aged 35 to 55 used moisturizer with the peptide on one side and plain moisturizer on the other. The peptide side had fewer wrinkles and fine lines by image analysis and expert grading.[4] A few smaller controlled studies in 35 to 49 women reported similar modest results, but two tested products with several active ingredients and one appeared only in a trade publication.[2] An 8 week trial of 21 women also favored it over placebo.[5]

Boosts collagen production

Only in animals

In skin cells grown in the lab, the peptide raised collagen types I, III and IV and other support proteins.[2][6] A liposome version raised collagen more than the free peptide in mouse cells.[9] No human study we found measured collagen in the skin of people using the cream.

Works better than other wrinkle peptides

Mixed results

In the only head to head trial we found, 21 Indonesian women used a Matrixyl cream, an argireline cream or placebo for 8 weeks, and Matrixyl appeared to give the best results. The abstract gave no numbers, and the authors called the study small and short.[5]

Works as well as a prescription retinoid

Not tested

No trial has compared Matrixyl alone with tretinoin. In a randomized trial of 196 women, a multi product cosmetic routine with niacinamide, unnamed peptides and a vitamin A compound improved wrinkles at least as well as prescription tretinoin and caused less irritation over 8 weeks.[12] The abstract does not say whether Matrixyl was one of the peptides, so this says nothing about Matrixyl by itself.

Helps wounds heal and prevents scars

Only in animals

In human skin cells grown in the lab, the peptide cut the share of cells turning into scar forming cells roughly in half at one strength, but not at a higher one.[10] The authors noted it could also push toward scarring, and no animal or human wound study was done.[10]

Is gentle and safe on skin

Mixed results

In the 93 woman trial, the peptide was well tolerated over 12 weeks.[4] In a 2026 chick embryo study, Matrixyl placed directly on embryos caused no visible defects.[11] Long term safety has not been studied in people.

Known risks and side effects

  • Modest, short term results. The largest trial lasted 12 weeks, so long term benefit is unknown.[4]
  • Mixed formulas cloud results. Many peptide cream studies combine several active ingredients, so effects cannot be credited to the peptide alone.[2]
  • Thin independent evidence. Several cited results come from patents, trade documents or product materials rather than peer reviewed studies, and the newest safety framework comes from industry scientists.[2][7]
  • Possible scarring signal. Lab authors cautioned that the same signal that helps healing could also promote scarring, so effects on damaged skin are uncertain.[10]
  • Drug claims and injected use. A product that claims to change skin structure can count as an unapproved drug. Matrixyl is not on FDA's compounding lists, and the studies tested creams, not injections, so injected use has no published safety data.[8][15][4]

Regulatory status

Today: Matrixyl is sold as a cosmetic ingredient, and cosmetics do not need FDA approval before sale.[8] It does not appear on FDA's compounding category lists and is not named on WADA's 2027 Prohibited List.[15][16]

Sources

  1. FDA Global Substance Registration System. Palmitoyl pentapeptide-4, UNII KK181SM5JG. FDA GSRS
  2. Schagen SK. Topical Peptide Treatments with Effective Anti-Aging Results. Cosmetics. 2017;4(2):16. DOI 10.3390/cosmetics4020016
  3. Choi YL, Park EJ, Kim E, Na DH, Shin YH. Dermal Stability and In Vitro Skin Permeation of Collagen Pentapeptides (KTTKS and palmitoyl-KTTKS). Biomol Ther (Seoul). 2014;22(4):321-327. PMID 25143811
  4. Robinson LR, Fitzgerald NC, Doughty DG, Dawes NC, Berge CA, Bissett DL. Topical palmitoyl pentapeptide provides improvement in photoaged human facial skin. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2005;27(3):155-160. PMID 18492182
  5. Aruan RR, Hutabarat H, Widodo AA, Firdiyono MTCC, Wirawanty C, Fransiska L. Double-blind, Randomized Trial on the Effectiveness of Acetylhexapeptide-3 Cream and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 Cream for Crow's Feet. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2023;16(2):37-43. PMID 36909866
  6. Katayama K, Armendariz-Borunda J, Raghow R, Kang AH, Seyer JM. A pentapeptide from type I procollagen promotes extracellular matrix production. J Biol Chem. 1993;268(14):9941-9944. DOI 10.1016/s0021-9258(18)82153-6
  7. Bjerke DL, Li J, Gao Y, Hu P, Lintner K, Hakozaki T. A framework for the safety evaluation of peptides in cosmetics. Curr Res Toxicol. 2026;10:100291. PMID 41953401
  8. US Food and Drug Administration. Is It a Cosmetic, a Drug, or Both? (Or Is It Soap?). FDA
  9. Vitali A, Paolicelli P, Bigi B, et al. Liposome Encapsulation of the Palmitoyl-KTTKS Peptide: Structural and Functional Characterization. Pharmaceutics. 2024;16(2):219. PMID 38399273
  10. Park H, An E, Cho Lee AR. Effect of Palmitoyl-Pentapeptide (Pal-KTTKS) on Wound Contractile Process in Relation with Connective Tissue Growth Factor and α-Smooth Muscle Actin Expression. Tissue Eng Regen Med. 2017;14(1):73-80. DOI 10.1007/s13770-016-0017-y
  11. Nurhidayat L, Rumansara PS, Nuris SF, et al. Neurodevelopmental Responses to Argireline and Matrixyl in Chicken Embryo: An Indication of Teratogenic Potential. Jurnal Biota. 2026;12(2):228-244. DOI 10.19109/biota.v12i2.33882
  12. Fu JJJ, Hillebrand GG, Raleigh P, Li J, Marmor MJ, Bertucci V, et al. A randomized, controlled comparative study of the wrinkle reduction benefits of a cosmetic niacinamide/peptide/retinyl propionate product regimen vs. a prescription 0.02% tretinoin product regimen. Br J Dermatol. 2010;162(3):647-654. PMID 20374604
  13. Kaczvinsky JR, Griffiths CEM, Schnicker MS, Li J. Efficacy of anti-aging products for periorbital wrinkles as measured by 3-D imaging. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2009;8(3):228-233. PMID 19735523
  14. Chan LKW, Lee KWA, Lee CH. Cosmeceuticals in photoaging: A review. Skin Res Technol. 2024;30(9):e13730. PMID 39233460
  15. US Food and Drug Administration. Bulk Drug Substances Nominated for Use in Compounding Under Section 503A of the FD&C Act (category lists). Updated May 14, 2026. FDA category list
  16. World Anti-Doping Agency. World Anti-Doping Code International Standard: Prohibited List 2027. In force January 1, 2027. WADA 2027 List
Medical disclaimer

This page is educational information only. It is not medical advice and does not replace care from a licensed medical provider. Do not use this page to decide whether to take any substance. Talk to a licensed medical provider first.

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